Tall cordgrass, thick with thousands of Atlantic ribbed mussels, lines the banks of the Broadkill River. Slowly, we drifted through the salt marsh, taking in a landscape where the natural and built environment have coexisted for decades.
After driving a mile past a farm, we arrived at the Oyster Rocks Road Boat Launch on the Broadkill River. We passed expansive farmland and undeveloped lowlands before parking along the shoulder at the end of Oyster Rocks Road. Aside from the vast plains of marsh and grass, only a smattering of trees rose in the distance.
Paddling eastern coastal areas is a treat. Here, osprey, tides, and brackish or salt water create uniquely tranquil environments teeming with life. The Broadkill River was chosen specifically for this reason. Hoping to recreate some of the magnificence of paddling Virginia’s Eastern Shore, this place seemed like a good fit.
Although there were similarities—specifically warm tidal waters and salt marsh—this paddle had its own magic. It was another reminder that each place we visit for Canoe52 has its own significance, and of why this project began in the first place.
Into the Broadkill River Salt Marsh
At the start of the paddle, the river was, well, broad. Sort of fitting for the name. Once the canoe turned southeast, however, the environment changed. Osprey nesting platforms rose above the cordgrass, with pairs of osprey perched overhead surveying the marsh below. We also came across duck hunting blinds built along the banks of the river. Fastened to wooden pilings, these structures served as reminders of the longstanding connection between people and this environment.
As we snaked along the river, we came across a marina just before heading through Roosevelt Inlet and into Delaware Bay. As we paddled through the inlet, the waves from the bay began to build. Feeling adventurous, we pushed the canoe toward the end of the jetty, where the swells became considerably more powerful. Quickly, we turned right and rode the waves toward Lewes Public Beach.
An Unexpected Landing at Lewes Beach
Canoeing in open water with waves is not a common experience for Canoe52. More often, we paddle lakes, ponds, and rivers. Waves, like those experienced here or even on the Connecticut River, remind you how small and insignificant a canoe can feel in the face of the elements. That said, there is nothing quite like allowing the surf to carry you toward shore, the hull of the canoe gently running aground on a sandy beach.
That’s exactly what we did.
Jess and I pulled the canoe onto the beach as bewildered sunbathers looked on. We watched sailboats in the distance, ate a snack, and caught some rays for the remainder of the morning. It was an improvised stop, and one that could only have happened in a place like this.
Back Through the Marsh
Of course, heading back into the bay from the beach was a little trickier than coming ashore. Jess paddled from the bow while Tony pushed the canoe through the small waves and climbed into the stern. Once underway, we worked our way back toward the inlet and then upstream along the Broadkill River. The tide was higher than when we launched, covering the mussels along the banks—yet another reminder that the landscape is constantly changing in a tidal zone.
What began as an attempt to recreate the feeling of another coastal paddle became something entirely its own. The Broadkill offered the quiet familiarity of a salt marsh, but the unexpected run into Delaware Bay—and an improvised landing on Lewes Beach—made this experience uniquely Delaware.
