The Mississippi River moves differently than most.
Whereas the Current River rushed through the Ozarks, the Mississippi near Le Claire, Iowa felt broad and patient, with quiet backwaters breaking up its wide channels and filling them with lily pads and drifting reflections. From the shoreline, the town still feels like the kind of place that grew up alongside the river itself—small shops, old brick buildings, and the Buffalo Bill Museum that tells the story of how the river has shaped life here for generations.
It’s easy to forget how important this river once was for moving people and goods across the country.
Launching into the Backwaters
After breakfast at our apartment in Le Claire, we drove north along Highway 67 to the Princeton Wildlife Management Area. At around 9 AM, we pushed the canoe out into the calm water. Here, a series of islands and backchannel waterways defines this section of the Mississippi. Unlike many river paddles, this one required no shuttle. The slow current made it possible to explore the islands and backchannels before returning to the same launch.
The current here moves slowly enough to feel like flat water. We wove between lily pads as the Mississippi carried us among the islands. The partly cloudy skies were deep blue, contrasting with the murky water lapping against the hull of our vessel.
Quieter Side of the Mississippi River
Out on the water, Le Claire quickly disappeared behind us. The Mississippi had once shaped towns like this through commerce, transportation and exploration, but among these backchannels its human history felt distant. What remained immediately visible was the river as habitat.
There was a sense of isolation in a place teeming with life. Water lilies rose from the silt, dragonflies buzzed nearby, and fish moved unseen beneath the surface.
At the same time, the river was full of life, yet somehow we felt alone in it.
By midday, we turned the canoe back toward the boat slip. The river had been peaceful, almost meditative, but after hours among the islands our crew was ready for a change of scenery. Sometimes even a good rhythm needs to be broken.
